PB has a lifetime of experience in the arts, and puts all of those experiences into her custom dolls.
Part one is on removing the hair and part two, base painting of dolls.
Now, remember, if you comment on this post, you get a second entry in the June Drawing.
There will be more posts following this one documenting the process all the way to completion of the doll you see below.
Enjoy~ Big GZ
Doll and Tools
You will need, in addition to what you see above, a blow dryer. I use a blow dryer to heat the plastic around the neck to make removing the head easier. It decreases the chances that you will break the inner neck piece if you heat the plastic.
TOOLS: Manicure scissors, dental pick or large needle, needle nose pliers, grip nose pliers.
Rubber Band the hair before you cut it.
Use a dental pick or a large needle to push the hair down the holes the hair is poking through.
Use Needle Nose pliers and grip nose pliers to remove the hair from the neck hole.
There was glue inside this head- and that made it difficult to remove the hair with the needle nose pliers- I needed the grip nose style pliers to remove the hair.
Cut off hair is plastic bag, head is clean and free of hair.
I use acetone and swabs and pads to remove the paint on the face.
Change your swabs often or you will just smear paint everywhere.
I use the pointy end to get into small spaces.
Because I am going to spray paint this body, I have wiped it down with acetone- quickly and lightly. Acetone will MELT this plastic. Use caution! If you are afraid of melting the body, wash it with soap and water, and let it dry overnight. You have to remove the mold release that is on the plastic- or the paint will not stick properly.
I use cardboard boxes to paint in- keeps the overspray to a minimum, and I can take everything inside after I have painted it without touching it. Vinyl paint dries fairly quickly. Make sure you shake that can well.
I don't want her to be this pink- so a second coat is due- both for the head and body.
Jen asked about how well the paint sticks... it sticks well, providing you have removed any dirt, oil from your hands and the mold release agent. If you have not done so, this happens. It flaked as soon as I touched it. I missed taking off some of the mold release.
Next step- I wiped it with acetone. The area is now ready for re-painting.
Next Post:
Making a Feather Wig for your dolls!



























This tutorial is awesome! One of the best prepping tutorials that I have seen, and I've dug through a lot of them :) I'm really looking forward to seeing your feather wig tutorial, that is such a clever idea! Thank you for being willing to share :)
ReplyDeleteHey, I've actually got a question on this. Do you have a problem with the spray paint scraping off at the doll's joints or does that type of spray just really bond well?
ReplyDeletethis is an awesome idea, I have been itching to try and create my own doll but I'm so afraid I'm going to do something wrong and mess her up. I would have never thought plain old nail polish remover would take of the face paint! this is great! :D
ReplyDeleteSouthern boi/hal...Very appreciative Ma'am...that ya'all took the time to share this with your minions Little Missy...xhal
ReplyDeleteThis is a great tutorial, in depth information and clear simple pictures :) lovely!
ReplyDeleteWorst part about prepping a doll for customisation- picking all the left over hair from the inside of the head ; - ; In each of my reroots I've managed to ruin at least 1 pair of tweezers! Maybe time to invest in some jewellers pliers, haha :)
I can never get the paint to come off that cleanly. I haven't been using 100% acetone though...
ReplyDeleteAshley~ You must use 100% acetone. Things like oily nail polish remover and such will just make a mess.
ReplyDeleteAlso, it is important to use cotton wipes and swabs- they will absorb the paint. Polyester "cotton" balls do not work. Some paper towels can scratch the vinyl.
Great tutorial PB (this is bauhausfrau from MH dolls) Your tip about the mold release is brilliant - now I know what I was doing wrong!
ReplyDeleteI've got a question about the acetone, I usually use paint brush cleaner to remove the face ups, any idea if that will that work for cleaning the body of mold release?
I do not use paint brush cleaner- and I assume you mean something like turpenioid? It has an oily base - and I don't use anything with an oily base, unless I plan on using an oil based paint on top of that.
ReplyDeletePlastics are very tricky- and what looks fine today can be a horror show 3 months down the road after one chemical reacts with another.
Best thing for removing mold release is soap and water and something like a cotton terry wash cloth. I also use acetone and sometimes hydrogen peroxide or alcohol- depends on what I am working on.
this is AWESOME!! cuz i really wanted a white doll, but with draculaura's face. but i noticed this spray paint only comes in gloss for white, i like it having a more matte finish. will the doll be all shiny, and glossy with this spray paint?
ReplyDeletethis is AWESOME!! cuz i really wanted an all white doll, but with draculaura's face. but i see the white for this specific spray paint only comes in glossy. i dont like my doll being shiny, glossy, or having a wet/oily look.... will it be like that if i use this spray paint?
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately, Rustoleum doesn't carry a matte white in their vinyl paint, but VHT Vinyl Dye has a "satin white", which means you'll get a little gloss but it shouldn't turn out super shiny. Grisson/Magix leather dye is readily available in the UK, but oh does it look nice. Check out their projects page to see how cleanly it finishes on plastics.
DeleteDear Wennary:
DeleteI always use a flat spray on sealer on my dolls. You can use Mr.Super Clear Flat or Testors Dullcoat flat. Be aware you may lose some detail when you do this- as is mentioned in one of my other posts.
~PB
just curious about paints. is that the only paint that works for making custom dolls or can you use different paints?
ReplyDeleteDepends on what kind of doll you are painting. I use Liquitex acrylic paints with the sponge method most of the time- but I also have different metalic paints and other spray paints I use.
ReplyDeletethanks! I am looking afford to creating my own custom monster high dolls!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteI saw you doll looks fairly pink with one layer of white paint, is that like that in reality or is it just the photo? I'm looking to custom an MH doll and I need to change her body to look more paleish and now it's a very pink cat cam. Thanks for this tut btw!!
ReplyDeleteWhen I paint a doll I use light layers of paint. They dry faster, and look better.
DeleteYes, with the first coat the doll still looks pink. Look at the very last photo in the tutorial, and you can see where the paint is scratched away- you can compare the first layer of white to the original pink color.
When you paint, do not get the spray too close to the doll. Do a little bit at a time- and wait for it to dry so that you can see what color is there.
Sometimes I want to change the color- say to a different shade of blue- I will paint her white and then use the sponge technique to paint her the shade of blue I want her to be. You are only limited by your imagination.
Hope this helps :)