Modding Part 4

At Long Last

Remember Draken?

There were thoughts of giving Draken glass eyes, which is why I didn't wipe her eyes off when I started.  My thought was to use the eyes that were there as a cutting template.  Fast forward 3 weeks.  I have this vision of her - and it does not include glass eyes.  So, I began painting over the existing eyes.

The violet on her head is sponged on unevenly- on purpose.  Our skin does not look the same all over- and I do not want her to have a plastic feel when I am finished.  I am also studying photos of lizard markings- to give me a baseline to work from.

Here I started to add detail to the head with paint.  Her horns have a light coat of burnt sienna on them to give them more depth.  I mixed violet with green and painted her horn caps.  The painting on her eyes is just a base coat.  Same for her lips.  The eye color is violet mixed with brilliant blue.  The lips are brilliant blue washed over the violet.  Violet and black were mixed in even parts to make the contrasting color for her ears.  I suspect her ears will not be visible when I am finished- but that doesn't matter.  I will paint anything that has a chance of being seen. 

Continuing to add detail.  Using the same basic colors: Violet, Black, Burnt Sienna and Brilliant Blue.

First coat of Sakura Crystal is on her eyes to make them stand out.

Is that a smile I see on her face?  Think so. 

She has been on hold for so long I would hear her hissing from her project box every time I walked by.   

Looking more like horns now.

Now you didn't think she would be bright violet did you?  Draken relies on the element of surprise.  She likes to suddenly appear from the shadows. Remember she is a Mountain Dragon.  Tall, proud and tough as nails.

After she has had a day to dry completely, I will spray her with Mr.Super Clear Flat before painting any more on her.  This protects what I have done and gives me a slightly toothy texture on which to add paint.

It is getting more difficult to photograph her now.  There are many subtle shades that are hard to capture with the new paint.  If you click on the photos you can see them enlarged and see more of the colors.

Draken needs at least one pair of boots.  I started to make these while she was drying.

They fit.  Next step is to paint them with acrylic black paint.  It will make them look more like leather. 

 I may make her a second pair.  Boots she can wear at home.  These are for outdoors.  I want these to look like the mountain Fairy Folk made them for her.  She protects them and sometimes in the winter she brings them food.  As a Thank You they gift her with things.

Her face has been stippled with violet, black and ultramarine blue.

I keep old brushes for stippling.  The trick is to go slowly and try things out on your palette before you paint your doll.

She will have golden yellow eyes.  This base is orange.  Yellow is a transparent color-- so the base color is important.

Reptile eyes vary a lot.  Some have round pupils, some have slits.  I am thinking slits for Draken.  So I went looking for photos of reptile eyes with slits:

These are real eyes!  I love the top one- looks like it is smiling, and the eyelashes are da bomb!

Well, who on earth would mess with her?  With those eyes, her fangs do not need to be shown.  So I am leaving her lips as is- and sealing them with Sakura Crystal.

Boots Painted with 2 coats of acrylic black.

Flaps turned and held in place with ivory colored buttons.  I chose those buttons because they echo her eyes with their slitted pupils.

Next Post will have her hair and her clothing.

Remember:  Comment on a this post and receive another entry for the September drawing. 

Still taking suggestions for the prize :) ~PB

Custom Monster High Doll Face Painting

Part 2

Custom painting of Monster High Doll Head

We started with Candy and will continue until she is complete.  If you have been reading the tutorials, and you read the tip section at the end of the last face painting session, you might remember something I wrote about there was not so big a mess you could make, that it could not be repaired.

Last Monday, while preparing something in the kitchen, I managed to cut my thumb and thus put myself out of the painting game for a bit- because it hurt to hold the tiny brushes.  Fast forward to Thursday.  On Thursday I set everything up to finish painting Candy and to document that for the tutorials. 

 I was and am wearing a bandage on my thumb.

My thumb bandage got some blue/black paint on it, which transferred to Candy's nice white face.  I should have taken a photo, but I was really upset with myself and it did not cross my mind. 

I removed the blue/black paint with alcohol. So, her face is looking not so nice.  The sealer gets gummy and made lines in her face.
I will have to go in and repair my mess.  Since I had the paint mixed for her eyelashes, I continued with her eyes.  When they are done, I will repair her face, and take photos of that as well, so you can see what was done. This post will include that repair.

So, lets begin with the eyes.

I mixed black, ultramarine blue and some medium.  I started with a watercolor wash of the lower lashes- they look gray because there is very little paint in my brush- there is a lot of medium.

Next I took more paint and painted the upper lash line.  I used more paint, which makes it look black.  I never use straight black on anything.  I always add a little blue, or purple or brown- otherwise, the black looks too flat.   It may appear to be just black- but it has more life with the other color mixed in.

Using my 10/0 short liner brush I started to add the upper lashes.  The first set were gray, then I went darker and darker.  I lowered the lid line a bit to adjust her slightly sultry look.  My intention for Candy's eyes is to have them be a bit over-the-top.  This means ridiculous lashes.  I want her eyes to call to you. 
When the paint is dry, I will apply another coat of the Sakura Crystal on the eyeball part.  When that is dry, I will start on her face - and repair the damage.

First step to clean- Alcohol and swabs.  The sealer will get gummy, so I will need to go slowly and use lots of swabs.  This requires some patience.

The blushing is coming off.  I will start working the sharp end of the swabs up close to the lash line.

Eventually all the blush will be gone and some of the lashes too.

Her face is wet with the alcohol and it is softening up the sealer.  She is close to being finished with the cleaning.

I am continuing to clean around the lips and the lower lashes.

All clean.

Now I will let her rest- to be sure the alcohol and any remaining sealer is dry before I do the re-paint.

In order to re-apply the blush to her cheeks I need a thin coat of fresh paint.  The cleaning has left the surface too smooth to get the result I want to have with the pastels.  Her lower lashes have been removed back to the original blush line.

White acrylic paint and a cosmetic sponge wedge.  Dip your sponge in clean water and then squeeze it - this will leave just a little water behind, making your painting smoother.

Pick up some paint in the end of your sponge and dab it on your palette until it looks like this. 

Move quickly in little stabbing motions over the areas you want covered.  The paint layer needs to be very thin.

This works for painting your doll as well.  You will need to use many thin coats to get the same effect.  It works really well if you do it this way.

Candy is now re-painted.  None of the damage is present, and I have a clean surface to re-apply her blush.  I will use the same technique as shown before in a previous tutorial on June 13, 2012, using pastels.

I have given her a new blush with the pastels, and added some more color to her lips.

I have started putting in the lower lashes with the light gray made from the black/blue/medium mixture.

Now I am adding more dark strokes pulling from dark paint left under the eye with my liner brush.

After darkening the lower lashes, I started on the top lashes.  I build them like real lashes- even though it looks like it is solid, it is not. 

The contrast of the light and the dark make her face look more dramatic.

Before adding any more detail, I have put another coat of Sakura Crystal on the eyes and lips.  I put a coat of flat acrylic sealer on the lashes.

In order to build more perspective depth in her lashes, I put in some medium gray lashes on top of the black.

Then I added the black/blue mix on top of the gray.  Once this is dry, I will add more flat sealer on the lashes.  The difference is more noticeable in person.  This is why you need to judge for yourself as you go along.  Candy is now looking right at me- her personality is shining through. She would like to know where those clothes are...?!  Next Up.

Don't forget to leave your comments or questions- for which you will get another entry in the June Drawing :)

Custom Monster High Tutorial- Hair and Wigs

This post will be about doll hair, and the options you have for your dolls.  It will include wig making, and non-traditional re-rooting with different things.

Feather Wig

These are dyed cock feathers.  I bought these at a yard sale, but you can find them on ebay and etsy.

For Monster High dolls, these are the largest size you want to use for wig making- smaller feathers than these would work as well.  I am only using the tips of these, the red fluffy part is mostly discarded.

You will need to double wrap your head in plastic wrap.  You can even triple wrap- but use at least two pieces of plastic wrap- and tape each securely after you do.  Pull the wrap towards the face, so that the part of the head where the wig will be is as smooth as possible.

I put my head on the end of large handled paint brush before I wrap it.  Then I can hold onto it when I work and even place it in a jar or cup while waiting for the glue to dry.

This is the glue I use.  It can be used for lots of things.  It dries fast, and it stays somewhat flexible, which makes it perfect for this type of wig making.  You can also use liquid latex.  Liquid latex is costly, and you need to be careful not to use too much- as it will make your wig lumpy.  For small heads, I use Fabri-Tac.

I apply the glue with a toothpick- but some I have seen put it directly from the bottle to the head.  I need more control, so I use the toothpicks.

For the first round, put a small amount of glue on the head where the wig will be and let it dry while you pick out the feathers.

Next, cut some tips off of your feathers and try them out next to your head. You will notice that the feathers will often have a left or right twist- they will look better on one side of the head than they do on the other.  This feather would point backwards on the other side of the head.  You will start gluing along the baseline of the head, working your way to the crown.

There is a bit of red fluff on this one I have decided to leave attached.  It will be under other feathers, and will add a nice touch.
I use shorter feathers at the nape of the neck when I begin, then longer ones over the top.  This gives it a fuller look.

Halfway there.  At this point, I set her aside and clip more feathers to use.  I look at the wig for any bald patches or odd patches- and if it needs editing, I do it now.

Now I am piecing in the bangs and the top of the head.  There are lots of small feather tips cut and waiting.  It is at this point you may wish to use tweezers to place you feathers- depends on how you do with your own fingertips.  Have them ready if you think you might want them.  No heavy sighing- your feathers will fly all over :)

I think I am done here.  The glue is dry.  It is time to unwrap.  Cut the plastic wrap and peel it away from the face.

Pull it completely off of the head.  It may turn kind of inside out- that is okay.  Get out your scissors and VERY CAREFULLY trim the excess plastic wrap so that none shows.  You don't want to trim the feathers you so carefully placed- so take your time doing this part.

Here is the wig finished on the doll head.  This is a Draculaura sculpt from Sweet 1600.  The wig will look different on a Ghoulia sculpt or a Cleo sculpt.  This head is rounder and so the wig looks kind of tribal - imagine it on say, the skeleton head...or the dragon...

Monster High Dragon Head

You can somewhat arrange the feathers too- gently.

It is best you make the wig for the head you want it for.  The head sculpts do vary- and it will fit best if you do it for that particular head.
You can use this method with other things- like paper, yarn, fabric- even mohair.

Mohair Re-Root

This method we will work with what is traditionally called mohair.  With this method you can use any other fiber textiles like Cotswold lambs hair, Tibetan lambs wool, and even some yarns. 

Here is how to re-root, with a rooting tool and

some mohair bought on etsy:

First, stuff your head with fabric scraps.  I cut up strips from my husband's old polo shirts.  The strips are easy to insert- and easy to remove later when its time to put the head back on the doll.  You are stuffing the head to protect it.  The last thing one wants is to be pushing on the rooting tool - too hard- and then the head collapses and you have made a hole in the head in a place you won't like- maybe the cheek?  Middle of the forehead? Take this step and you will not be regretting later.

This is hand trimmed wool that has been hand dyed.  I liked this pink- and there is enough here to do many dolls.

Because it is hand dyed, the colors are varigated.  Start by gently pulling out locks.  You may see some flecks here and there of hay and grass.  I remove most of that by holding it up and blowing on it- what does not leave I pick out with tweezers. 

Keep pulling out locks, looking for both color and shapes.

This is my rooting tool.  I have had it for 20 years- my brother made it for me from a wood carving handle and sewing needle.  Now you can buy re-rooting tools on ebay or from dollyhair.com. 

Place a small hank or lock of the hair and start pushing it into the holes with your tool.  You do not have to catch every hair- the mohair sticks to itself- so this is a gentle job.

Begin at the outside hair line and work your way to the crown.

By holding up pieces you can find the best places for the locks you have selected.  I like this for the bangs.

I begin by picking some hairs at the back of the lock to root.  I keep doing this along the back edge.

The lock is now in place.

Starting on the other side.

I keep going around and around, adding locks.

This is the still bald spot on the top and back side of the head.

No longer bald.  5 locks were added.

Top of head.  I like this type of hair to look a bit messy, but you can make it more uniform by spending some time on the size and shape and placemment of the locks.  It is all up to you.

Finished.  Meet Candy.  You will be seeing her come to life right here.

Notice all of the hair that is left behind her.  Plenty to make wigs, do more re-roots.

Here is another example of a re-root with blue hand dyed Cotswold mohair:

And a re-root done with vintage black mohair that I set with end papers, water and rollers made from soda straws:

Valentinia's hair was rooted traditionally with needle and thread method.  It took a very long time.

While Cherry Bomb's hair was done just as Candy's was done:

There are still other methods for adding hair to your dolls, but I will stop here, as I have run out of time and runway for the evening. 

If you want to know how to re-root with a traditional needle and thread and buy synthetic doll hair, go here:

Tutorial:  http://www.dollyhair.com/reroottutorial.htm

Buy Hair:  http://www.dollyhair.com/main.htm

Dollyhair has the best selection of hair and tools.

Next Post up will be Candy's face paint.

UPDATE:

I have been asked 2 very good questions by readers here. 

Question:
Do you glue the hair inside the head after you finish?

Answer:
 I only glue on the inside of doll heads that have hair the new owner can brush and style.  The mohair I use cannot be messed with- and since it has a rougher texture, it stays in the holes it is poked into- much better than synthetic hair.  It usually stays put without issue.

The only exception- when a head has really big holes from the previous root. Some of these dolls have gaping holes after you remove the original hair- those I glue regardless of what kind of hair I have used- unless it is glued on top of the head to begin with- which is a whole other tutorial...

Question:
Can you play with the doll after the re-root, or will the hair fall out?

Answer:

If there is rough play, yes, it will come out.  Light play should not effect it staying in.  When in doubt- GLUE.